Collectors Information
First Editions/First Printings
The term 'First Edition' commonly meant the first appearance of a work, until the 1750's when mechanization made it easier to keep a typeset available for additional 'impressions' if the book turned out to be a popular seller. In the 20th Century the term 'First Printing' became more widely used. This made things a bit more confusing as a First Edition can include several 'Printings' (or impressions). Therefore, in the strictest sense a First Edition can include any number of printings or impressions by the same publisher, and only the 'First Printing' or 'First Impression' can reasonably be assumed to be the original printed version of a work, and that only of the edition printed by that particular publisher. The term "First Edition Thus", can be used to differentiate between a truly 'first' edition and another edition of the same work published for the first time by another publisher.
For more information about this subject, an authoritative source is the book: "ABC for Book Collectors" by John Carter. Also, a book that I find invaluable for determining whether a book is a true First Edition/Printing I suggest: "A Pocket Guide to the Identification of First Editions" by Bill McBride.
Book Conditions
As New: Refers to a book that is in the same condition as if it were still on the publisher's shelves. Some booksellers use the terms "Mint" or "Perfect" as used by the philatelic collector. This book should have no shelf-wear and the binding should be unopened as would an unread book. It must be in the immaculate condition in which it was published. There can be no defects, no missing pages, no library stamps, etc., and the dustjacket (if it was issued with one) must be perfect, without any tears. (Note: very few "new" books qualify for this grade, as many times there will be rubs/scuffs to the dustjacket from shipping, or bumped spine ends/corners from shelving)
Fine: Approaches the condition of As New, but without being crisp. For the use of the term Fine there must also be no defects to the book, and if the dustjacket has a small tear, or other defect, this must be noted. (The dustjacket may have been slightly rubbed or spine ends slightly bumped from shelving/shipping)
Near Fine/Very Good: Can describe a used book that does show some small signs of wear - but no tears - on either binding or paper. Any defects must be noted.
Good: Describes the average used and worn book that has all pages or leaves present. There may be soiling to the page edges, sun fading to the spine and covers, pages may be dog-eared and the corners of the boards will certainly be 'bumped'. The dustjacket will have edge wear, probably including small tears, and will most likely have bends and rubs along the edges. Any other major defects must be noted.
Fair: Is a worn book that has complete text pages (including those with maps or plates) but may lack endpapers, half-title, etc. (which must be noted). Binding, jacket (if any), etc. may also be very worn. This book may have significant defects such as loose pages, torn binding, severely damaged dustjacket. All defects must be noted.
Ex-Library: Indicates a book that was formerly held in a library and will have stamps indicating such on its end pages. Will also have, or once had, the card pocket pasted in the back and the Dewey designation sticker on it's spine or the spine of the Dust Jacket. A book should be designated as Ex-Library no matter what condition it is otherwise evaluated to be.
Book Care Tips
Don't write in your books. Period
But, if you already have put your name in them, accept this and deal with it. Don't
scribble it out with a pen or marker or white out - this is worse still. If for
any reason you have a need to put your name in a book, do it in pencil.
Shelving/Storing
Place books vertically on shelves that have more height and depth than you need, so that only one edge of the book needs to be in contact with the shelf. Very large books should be placed horizontally. Shelves without backboards are better, they give the air more chance to circulate. The best places for shelves are away from sunlight, warmth and moisture, which rules out much of the house, and means definitely not the garage or basement. A few whole cloves in the corners of bookshelves will prevent mildew. A dark room, that is cool and dry will be best
Musty Books
If you have old books on the shelves or the attic that smell musty, sprinkle
talcum powder in between the pages of the book and wrap the book in brown paper.
(A grocery bag works fine). Store the book a month or two. Then, remove it from
the paper and gently brush out the powder. The odor will be gone.
For additional information about particular books we suggest: Library of Congress Home Page